Here is some Info on the 2G CL/TL transmission .. ATF filter change .. Solenoids..ect
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Here is some Info on the 2G CL/TL transmission .. ATF filter change .. Solenoids..ect
I figured I would make a thread about our trannies and keeping them alive for you newbies.... I replaced the trans 3 times from ACURA and recently had it Rebuilt but a independent transmission shop.. I changed the ATF filter (which most dlrs dont even know about0 twice and fluid and many occasions so here it goes....
First off changing ATF filter.. Part #9 in this diagram..
Some of you guys with a older transmission have this oil jet I have a newer (suposidly fixed tranny so DO NOT have the oil jet just a NUT there (this is where u fill the transmission fluid. If u have a oil jet there I belive u have a older transmission (this was acura's band-aid to the problem)
Make sure that while removing the steel fluid line not to damage the o-ring. I replaced mine when I replaced my filter. Be sure to coat it with trans fluid before installing the line.
First off changing ATF filter.. Part #9 in this diagram..
Some of you guys with a older transmission have this oil jet I have a newer (suposidly fixed tranny so DO NOT have the oil jet just a NUT there (this is where u fill the transmission fluid. If u have a oil jet there I belive u have a older transmission (this was acura's band-aid to the problem)
Make sure that while removing the steel fluid line not to damage the o-ring. I replaced mine when I replaced my filter. Be sure to coat it with trans fluid before installing the line.
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OK changing the fluid... Everyone says something different but here I go...
You can do a 3 X 3 (which is 9 quarts and ACURA calls a overhaul) some people say its 12 quarts but with my math 3 x 3 is 9..
Changing the transmission fluid is easier then changing the oil, underneath the trans there is a nut, unscrew that nut and about 3 quarts will drain from the trans. There is a magnet on the nut wipe the crud off it and put the nut back .
After you drain 3 and put nut back refill the fluid where the OILJET is (if you have no oiljet there is a nut that says ATF) and then drive through the gears make sure you use Reverse and all 5 gears.. After driving for 5-10 minutes through the gears repeat process as many times as you like.. Remeber the trans hold under 9 quarts so if you buy 9 and do this 3 times you will get most the fluids out but the dealer says only drain 3 and refill 3 quarts every 30K so do as you please..
You can do a 3 X 3 (which is 9 quarts and ACURA calls a overhaul) some people say its 12 quarts but with my math 3 x 3 is 9..
Changing the transmission fluid is easier then changing the oil, underneath the trans there is a nut, unscrew that nut and about 3 quarts will drain from the trans. There is a magnet on the nut wipe the crud off it and put the nut back .
After you drain 3 and put nut back refill the fluid where the OILJET is (if you have no oiljet there is a nut that says ATF) and then drive through the gears make sure you use Reverse and all 5 gears.. After driving for 5-10 minutes through the gears repeat process as many times as you like.. Remeber the trans hold under 9 quarts so if you buy 9 and do this 3 times you will get most the fluids out but the dealer says only drain 3 and refill 3 quarts every 30K so do as you please..
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This is where you fill the new fluid if you have a oil jet this is how it will look if you do not have a oil jet then they will be a bolt that says ATF on it!
#4
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OK now this is how you replace 3rd and 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch.
If your trans is jerking I "heard" that replacing these will help the tranny shift smoother and maybee save your tranny... Some in the 2nd and 3rd gen TL replaced these switches and noticed alot of improvement in shifting quality.
Parts #12 and #13..
I hope this save some of you guys from what happen to me and spending $2500-$3500 on a new transmission... If you have ANY questions please just ask or PM me I had this car for over 9 years (got it in april 2000 pre ordered b4 it was released) and was on 260hp.com which morphed into this site and learned almost everything from you guys so might as well share what I learned with the new people getting this car and saving them some money!! I am a do-it yourself kinda "broke" guy that will try to fix everything myself and because of this site I saved ALOT of money!!
If your trans is jerking I "heard" that replacing these will help the tranny shift smoother and maybee save your tranny... Some in the 2nd and 3rd gen TL replaced these switches and noticed alot of improvement in shifting quality.
Parts #12 and #13..
I hope this save some of you guys from what happen to me and spending $2500-$3500 on a new transmission... If you have ANY questions please just ask or PM me I had this car for over 9 years (got it in april 2000 pre ordered b4 it was released) and was on 260hp.com which morphed into this site and learned almost everything from you guys so might as well share what I learned with the new people getting this car and saving them some money!! I am a do-it yourself kinda "broke" guy that will try to fix everything myself and because of this site I saved ALOT of money!!
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So there has to be summtin to it when a few different people are telling me the same thing! I just hope my trans hold up but with all the reinforcments he did to it I have a feeling that it will last..
Only time will tell..
What kinda fluid r u gonna use?
#12
lowrd on tein CS biatch
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I'm gonna use the redline ATF fluid, as my guy was telling me that's what he puts in all of his rebuilds and they've been getting more milage than the one from the factory are.
Normally he uses a different tq converter but I'm making him order mine from that company you mentioned after seeing the video I am SOLD.
So i'm getting that tq converter, new filterS, clutch packs, and w/e else needs a fixing, PLUS the comptech trans cooler.
All for 1600 PLUS the difference of the tq converter. Original price was 1400, so + 200 for the cooler, and add w/e extra for the tq converter and that's my total price... Cash, and Canadian DOLLAS.
Anyone local need comptech SHYT let me know and I'll ask my guy and he'll get w/e you want/need
Normally he uses a different tq converter but I'm making him order mine from that company you mentioned after seeing the video I am SOLD.
So i'm getting that tq converter, new filterS, clutch packs, and w/e else needs a fixing, PLUS the comptech trans cooler.
All for 1600 PLUS the difference of the tq converter. Original price was 1400, so + 200 for the cooler, and add w/e extra for the tq converter and that's my total price... Cash, and Canadian DOLLAS.
Anyone local need comptech SHYT let me know and I'll ask my guy and he'll get w/e you want/need
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Thats a GREAT PRICE... The soleniods and torque converter alone are about $1000, but he will prob reuse all the soleniods... When u mentiond the trans star TQ to your mechanic did he ever hear of them B4?
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My guy only orders them..
most good parts need to be ordered...
I dont know 1 part store around me that carries AMSOIL fluids/ EBC rotors/pads/ hawk pads only the cheap stuff like duralast/ac delco and other BS brands!
most good parts need to be ordered...
I dont know 1 part store around me that carries AMSOIL fluids/ EBC rotors/pads/ hawk pads only the cheap stuff like duralast/ac delco and other BS brands!
#17
lowrd on tein CS biatch
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i am lucky then . 1 km from me is a performance shop name Johnson Research and Performance.
They sell ebs rotors pads... and soon DBA rotors.
And they can order in any fluids to my knowledge.
The Transtar DLR that I found on the net is also located IN MY CITY amazingly and is the EXACT same place my guy who's rebuilding my tranny goes to buy his parts for when he rebuilds transmissions. So I won't have to wait for them to ship it in or pay duty fees or any of that crap... wooohoooo.
So things are looking pretty good over here.
They sell ebs rotors pads... and soon DBA rotors.
And they can order in any fluids to my knowledge.
The Transtar DLR that I found on the net is also located IN MY CITY amazingly and is the EXACT same place my guy who's rebuilding my tranny goes to buy his parts for when he rebuilds transmissions. So I won't have to wait for them to ship it in or pay duty fees or any of that crap... wooohoooo.
So things are looking pretty good over here.
#18
Chamorro
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OK changing the fluid... Everyone says something different but here I go...
You can do a 3 X 3 (which is 9 quarts and ACURA calls a overhaul) some people say its 12 quarts but with my math 3 x 3 is 9..
Changing the transmission fluid is easier then changing the oil, underneath the trans there is a nut, unscrew that nut and about 3 quarts will drain from the trans. There is a magnet on the nut wipe the crud off it and put the nut back .
After you drain 3 and put nut back refill the fluid where the OILJET is (if you have no oiljet there is a nut that says ATF) and then drive through the gears make sure you use Reverse and all 5 gears.. After driving for 5-10 minutes through the gears repeat process as many times as you like.. Remeber the trans hold under 9 quarts so if you buy 9 and do this 3 times you will get most the fluids out but the dealer says only drain 3 and refill 3 quarts every 30K so do as you please..
You can do a 3 X 3 (which is 9 quarts and ACURA calls a overhaul) some people say its 12 quarts but with my math 3 x 3 is 9..
Changing the transmission fluid is easier then changing the oil, underneath the trans there is a nut, unscrew that nut and about 3 quarts will drain from the trans. There is a magnet on the nut wipe the crud off it and put the nut back .
After you drain 3 and put nut back refill the fluid where the OILJET is (if you have no oiljet there is a nut that says ATF) and then drive through the gears make sure you use Reverse and all 5 gears.. After driving for 5-10 minutes through the gears repeat process as many times as you like.. Remeber the trans hold under 9 quarts so if you buy 9 and do this 3 times you will get most the fluids out but the dealer says only drain 3 and refill 3 quarts every 30K so do as you please..
So you drain the fluid until only 3 quarts come out? or about 3 will come out when you drain it? Then you put 3 back in, drive through the gears (1-5 + R) then drain again. Repeating as many times as you like. Do I have that right? My tranny has been feeling odd the past couple weeks. Its my second one (warranty replacement). I want to do this before I take it to the dealer and not have a car for another week while they replace it. I'm still covered under the warranty for the new tranny but there is that damn diagnostic fee you have to pay if it doesn't turn out to be what you thought it was.
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I would recomend not doing the 3x3 all in one day do it over a span of 3 oil changes... like drain 3 and fill 3 now then 3-5k later (next oile change) do anouther drain 3 and fill 3... Or for the first time do a 3 x 2 (6 quarts) cuz u dont wanna get all the build up of crud all out to get into the gears ..
So do a drain 3 and fill 3 then do it 2-3 more times at your next 2-3 oil changes...That my recomondation!!
Good luck!
#23
Chamorro
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You can buy the big jugs at a auto parts store that is marked and then after you drain it just fill the jug to double check... I must have drained and filled my tranny 6-7 times during the period of almost 10 years owning my car and evry time when draining 3 quarts came out, give or take a few ounces..EVERY TIME.. so if you wanna double check spill what came out in a jug to check and just fill 3 quarts up, 3 bottles... You can also check useing the dip stick...
I would recomend not doing the 3x3 all in one day do it over a span of 3 oil changes... like drain 3 and fill 3 now then 3-5k later (next oile change) do anouther drain 3 and fill 3... Or for the first time do a 3 x 2 (6 quarts) cuz u dont wanna get all the build up of crud all out to get into the gears ..
So do a drain 3 and fill 3 then do it 2-3 more times at your next 2-3 oil changes...That my recomondation!!
Good luck!
I would recomend not doing the 3x3 all in one day do it over a span of 3 oil changes... like drain 3 and fill 3 now then 3-5k later (next oile change) do anouther drain 3 and fill 3... Or for the first time do a 3 x 2 (6 quarts) cuz u dont wanna get all the build up of crud all out to get into the gears ..
So do a drain 3 and fill 3 then do it 2-3 more times at your next 2-3 oil changes...That my recomondation!!
Good luck!
Alright cool. Car has to be running to check tranny level doesn't it?
#26
Cl tranny
I'm looking at an 01 type S with 125K miles. I'm a paraplegic and can't get under or around to look at some of the things here. I used to be able to do a lot of my own maintenance, but no more. I'm getting a bit hesitant about buying one due to all the transmission issues. The Acura/Hondas are normally reliable as grandpa's pocket watch.
What should I look for? Got any tips? I'll try to get warranty for sure. Any way to tell what work has been done? I've got carfax, but how reliable are those entries? THANKS.
What should I look for? Got any tips? I'll try to get warranty for sure. Any way to tell what work has been done? I've got carfax, but how reliable are those entries? THANKS.
#28
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I'm looking at an 01 type S with 125K miles. I'm a paraplegic and can't get under or around to look at some of the things here. I used to be able to do a lot of my own maintenance, but no more. I'm getting a bit hesitant about buying one due to all the transmission issues. The Acura/Hondas are normally reliable as grandpa's pocket watch.
What should I look for? Got any tips? I'll try to get warranty for sure. Any way to tell what work has been done? I've got carfax, but how reliable are those entries? THANKS.
What should I look for? Got any tips? I'll try to get warranty for sure. Any way to tell what work has been done? I've got carfax, but how reliable are those entries? THANKS.
If you look under the hood and see a Oil Jet where the filler bolt is then most likely its the original tranny and with 125K who knows how long it will hold up..You prob wanna stay away..
Also look at the sticker on the tranny if it is MGFA it might be a newer model tranny but some just got there tranny recently and got a BGFA so who knows..
Also someone said that the replacement trannies get blue bolts well mine did and thats what some people said was the case but who knows?
On the carfax it will not say if the tranny was replaced cuz mine was replaced by 2 diff dealers and it did not show up once on the car fax..Acura was secrative with the trannies I dont think they want anyone to know ezactly how many of them they replaced!
#29
I Wanna Beer
Had a torque converter built up on a performance build I did on a previous vehicle. Brazed fins, etc. Most decent transmission shops should be able to take care of it for ya. I later snapped the stator shaft (no idea how much torque you need to do that). Ooops.
#30
Intermediate
Essential for high mileage vehicles
I have 157K my car and 55K on the 2nd trans.
I regularly change the ATF at 15K intervals (Mobil 1 Multi-Vehicle ATF). Lately I've been experiencing trans problems (sluggish shifting, Notchy & slow to engage in 1st gear . . .) so I decided to change the ATF filter yesterday.
Startling difference. Crisp shifts (up & down), 1st gear is tight again, feels almost like a new transmission.
Anyone experiencing these issues or driving a high mileage CL should invest an hour in this job. Well worth the cost & effort. Wish I had done this 100K miles ago.
I regularly change the ATF at 15K intervals (Mobil 1 Multi-Vehicle ATF). Lately I've been experiencing trans problems (sluggish shifting, Notchy & slow to engage in 1st gear . . .) so I decided to change the ATF filter yesterday.
Startling difference. Crisp shifts (up & down), 1st gear is tight again, feels almost like a new transmission.
Anyone experiencing these issues or driving a high mileage CL should invest an hour in this job. Well worth the cost & effort. Wish I had done this 100K miles ago.
#32
i got a new trans spet of 08 and that thing took a shit already with only 18K on it.....
#33
Trans Fluid Change
Ok, I read the well-written instructions but this will be my first time and I still have a few questions. I have a late 2003 that had the oil jet installed as part of the recall. My questions are: 1.) When draining the fluid, should the nut and compression gasket be changed? I read in the first gen. forum that they both should be changed, but I never heard of changing the nut. The drain plug appears to take a square-type tool. I tried a 3/8" ratchet plug but it was too big. Do you know what size plug tool it takes? 3.) Once the oil jet is removed, does it require a new gasket? 4.) What type of ATF do you recommend? I was thinking of using synthetic but maybe I should stay with Honda parts??? Thanks,
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Ok, I read the well-written instructions but this will be my first time and I still have a few questions. I have a late 2003 that had the oil jet installed as part of the recall. My questions are: 1.) When draining the fluid, should the nut and compression gasket be changed? I read in the first gen. forum that they both should be changed, but I never heard of changing the nut. The drain plug appears to take a square-type tool. I tried a 3/8" ratchet plug but it was too big. Do you know what size plug tool it takes? 3.) Once the oil jet is removed, does it require a new gasket? 4.) What type of ATF do you recommend? I was thinking of using synthetic but maybe I should stay with Honda parts??? Thanks,
Hope this all helps!
#36
Stoned CL,
Thanks for the ATF info; I'll just stick with Honda Z1. Since my 2003 had the oil jet installed with the recall, would you know whether I need to replace a gasket of some sorts when I remove the oil jet? Someone mentioned about replacing the drain plug and gasket when you change the fluid; is this what you did?
Thanks for the ATF info; I'll just stick with Honda Z1. Since my 2003 had the oil jet installed with the recall, would you know whether I need to replace a gasket of some sorts when I remove the oil jet? Someone mentioned about replacing the drain plug and gasket when you change the fluid; is this what you did?
#37
lowrd on tein CS biatch
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yes when i got mine renuilt by the acura mechanic he specifically said to not use anything but the OEM fluid. Because it is designed for the metals they use. and synthetic doesn't work as well with our trannys. i forgot the reason why. but all i know is to ONLY use the OEM stuff. and you'll be good. Just change fluid every 30K and atf filter
#38
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i HAVE NOT HAD THE OILD jeT in my last 2 transmissions , when I did flush when I took those pics when I had the oil jet I just replaced the crush washer .