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The procedure for 'Erasing the DTC Memory' is on p.23-24 of the Helms service manual. Y'all have access to this bible, right? Or else you will forever be chasing your tail, pulling out your hair, etc.
Once the SRS light is cleared, with the ignition 'on,' plug the passenger sb into the buckle a few times to see if the light returns. If not, try the same with the driver's sb.
The procedure for 'Erasing the DTC Memory' is on p.23-24 of the Helms service manual. Y'all have access to this bible, right? Or else you will forever be chasing your tail, pulling out your hair, etc.
Once the SRS light is cleared, with the ignition 'on,' plug the passenger sb into the buckle a few times to see if the light returns. If not, try the same with the driver's sb.
This whole diy, is soo gangsta!!! Worked mint..... Mine happens to be the paseenger seat belt buckle. But at least i narrowed it down and know it will be a free charge from the dreaded dealer...
so it finally got me. the friggin light is solid red and i dunno how to clear it.
I've read it may just go away with a simple clear, or it may be a number of other malfunctions.
Also I read theres a warranty extension on the occupant position detection system which also may be the issue
And to call acura at 1800 382 2238 to assign a case number and get the light fixed for free potentially?
Could someone please tell me how to reset the SRS light. I rear how to do it but I still dunno what I'm looking for. I know where. (under the steering wheel to the left).
Worked like a charm first time on my 01 cLS with 237k. Light had come on several years ago and dealer did the buckle fix for free but thought I'd try this first. Thanks!
Supplies Needed: 2 wires
Steps:
1) You need to find the MES Connector. On my car it was plugged into the back-side of the fuse box. It was yellow in color and was a 2 prong connector. The insulating material around the wires of the connector was also yellow. For me, it was easy to find. HOWEVER, I have heard of some people saying that they had a green connector located near the hood release latch. Wherever your connector is located, it is plugged into a "dummy harness." Hence, the prongs are not actually plugged into anything; the "dummy harness" just holds the MES Connector and prevents it from bouncing around.
2) Clip one alligator clip to one of the prongs and the other alligator clip to the other prong. If you're using 2 strands of wire, you won't be clipping, but twisting or shoving the wire into the respective prongs.
3) Hold the two ends of your wire together, so that they are now connected.
4) Keeping the wires connected, turn the ignition on (Do NOT start your car).
5) The SRS light comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off. Quickly disconnect the two wires.
6) The SRS light will come on again. Quickly reconnect your wires.
7) The SRS light goes off. Disconnect your wire connection and leave the wires disconnected.
8) If you did this correctly, the SRS will blink twice.
9) Turn the ignition off and wait 10 seconds.
10) Turn the ignition on, thus starting your car, and hopefully the SRS light will now be off.
11) Turn your car off, assuming the above instructions worked and your SRS light is now off. If not, either retry the instructions and/or verify that nothing else is wrong.
11) Remove your wires, do not cross them at all or let them touch. Replug the yellow/green connector back into the "dummy harness".
12) If the SRS light comes back on (assuming you reset the SRS correctly and the light was off), then something is malfunctioning in the SRS Airbag System and you'll have to see a dealership or repair shop.
Problems?
- You only have a 4 second window to connect/disconnect the wires. Example: when the SRS light comes on in Step 6, you have 4 seconds to reconnect the wires.
- Make sure you have the right connector and that a module or some other part of the SRS system is not malfunctioning.
- It took me 2 tries to get it right. The main thing to remember is that the wires need to be connected when the light is on, disconnected when the light is off.
Worked for my 03 CL-6 also. This video is pretty good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqLNK7_v64E
The plug is the higher smaller one like he shows in the video. One thing that helped me was to wear my joggers headlamp so that I could see what I was doing under there and have both hands free. The harness does not come out very far. I used some small phone wire that I could run out a couple feet for ease of connecting and disconnecting. The first try, it flashed when I did the initial touching of the wires but not the second. On the second try it worked as described and the SRS light is off. Thanks for posting the procedure.
Here's the pic and instructions together. The yellow plug is actually on the back side of the driver under dash fuse box. Which is under the dash next to the inner driver door front hinge pillar.
So a few weeks back I burned out a taillight bulb and of course the dash brake lamp light came on in my 2003 Acura TL S-Type. Easy fix right.
So, one night I replaced it but my eyes aren't what they once were and I put in a similar bulb but not correct bulb (the bulb came from the third brake light and since I got a spoiler it isn't connected). So what I thought was a handy spare wasn't and it blew my brake light fuse, but I didn't think of that til later. And I go inside cause 1am isn't a good time to fiddle in the back of a car on the street.
So next morning I replace with the proper bulb and still no light, this is were I think it is a fuse, and I check the wrong fuse box and pull backlight fuse or something close cause I am tired and not thinking properly and figure I don't need no stinking manual for a bulb change and maybe that is just what the call it across the Pacific. Well that fuse just turns off the dash panel and turns on the CEL and SRS lights when put back in. So now I still have no tail lights and a CEL and SRS lights on. Yup, let's multiply my problems.
Okay, back at home I do what I should have done and pull the manual out of the glove box (seriously wasn't like I filed it somewhere). Find the right fuse under the hood swap it out and let there be light. Disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and the CEL light goes off. Consult Acurazine for SRS light reset and use the written how to in response 17 by glitchsys and SRS light goes off, I used spare wire from garage door opener to outside keypad and my clip was the little yellow one above the large yellow one on back side of drivers fuse panel. Took 30 seconds.
In short YES this reset will work. If you have other problems it may come back and you may need to see a dealer about seatbelts or whatever, in my case I caused it and this did clear it.
Also always consult you manual and acurazine so you don't screw even the easiest of jobs up.
Here's the pic and instructions together. The yellow plug is actually on the back side of the driver under dash fuse box. Which is under the dash next to the inner driver door front hinge pillar.
After all this time the procedure still works ... but you have to be quick. FWIW I used a bent paper clip as a jumper. This is the second time my SRS light has come on, both times drivers seat-belt related. The first time I disconnected the battery to reset it. Obviously this is so much easier.
This is the second time my SRS light has come on, both times drivers seat-belt related.
If you have an Acura dealer in your neck of the woods just have the belt buckle replaced under the lifetime warranty and/or the 'SRS indicator light Warranty Extension' and be done with it.
It just occurred to me that you may be beyond the 10 years or 150,000 miles qualifier.
For detailed repair, VIN, and warranty information, see S/B 06-008, Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3.
I think there are 150xxx miles on the car so they might show some slack on that but if it's 10 years then I'm definitely SOL
edit: This might help someone... 10 years or 157,500 miles
I think there are 150xxx miles on the car so they might show some slack on that but if it's 10 years then I'm definitely SOL
edit: This might help someone... 10 years or 157,500 miles
Reading over that SB-06008 it only refers to the OPDS system though, IF your SRS is triggered by a faulty seat belt buckle it would then be covered by the Lifetime Seat belt warranty.
That was the case with mine. The SRS light would trigger, in my case, usually when I would get into the car, connect the seat belt and then turn on the ignition to start the car. This started to occur about only 12-18 months after purchasing the vehicle. It got to be such a pain in the ass that I purchased the SCS Service Connector; #07PAZ-0010100 to do the resets. When I finally got around to having it properly diagnosed, back in June 2011, under the letter generated by SB-06008, they concluded that the OPDS was fine and, in fact, it was the drivers belt buckle (retail $84 w/o labor) and replaced it for free under the Lifetime warranty. That was the clear determining differentiation.
Had my ABS control module replaced because the ABS and another light were on. After replacement of module, the two lights were off but SRS light came on. I used the reset procedure described above and light is now off. If there is a issue, how long do you think for the light to come back on?
Had my ABS control module replaced because the ABS and another light were on. After replacement of module, the two lights were off but SRS light came on. I used the reset procedure described above and light is now off. If there is a issue, how long do you think for the light to come back on?
If your SRS light comes back on again, it could be a worn out front seat belt buckle.
Acura will replace this free of charge; however, you'd most likely have to pay a diagnostic fee.
Said diagnostic fee will probably be over the cost of the actual seat belt buckle (about $90 before shipping) and would substantiate the submission of an SRS lifetime warranty claim for the stealership.
Or, you can buy the part yourself and replace it DIY, just make sure it is the root of your reoccurring SRS light.
#1 or 3 on the link below: Seat Belt - 2003 Acura CL 2 Door SPORT KA 5AT (acurapartswarehouse.com)
My local stealership Marin Acura replaced my 01 CL-S driver's side buckle for free this August. But it took two trips since they wouldn't order one to have onhand like I suggested before it was actually diagnosed by the tech.
If your light comes on, tell them it's one of the buckles, and insist that it's FREE (in USA).
Since we're reviving an old thread from the dead, what is it about the seat belt buckle sensor that goes out? Is it not something that is easily fixable? Obviously, messing around with safety components isn't a good idea, but I don't really want to pay & have some one holding my car for two days just to swap out a buckle.
It's a sensor, it can't be that hard to fix, right? Is it maybe just a push button that tells the sensor that the seat belt is locked in place? Maybe the button just came loose? Maybe the solder needs to be reflowed? I still need to get mine fixed, so I might open it up and take a look, because the fix is a little ridiculous honestly.
Phone up your stealership and tell them that, and they'll give you a nice ILX loaner!
Nah.
Originally Posted by zeta
I mean, has anyone even attempted it? All I see are threads complaining about the issue, but never actually looking into. I am DIYer, and love taking things apart, learning how they work, and putting it back together. Why not?
I mean, has anyone even attempted it? All I see are threads complaining about the issue, but never actually looking into. I am DIYer, and love taking things apart, learning how they work, and putting it back together. Why not?
Not that I remember observing here over the years.
The only thing I remember is people re-flowing the main fuel relay.
I'd be interested in observing your findings and what the belt buckle components look like.
Not that I remember observing here over the years.
The only thing I remember is people re-flowing the main fuel relay.
I'd be interested in observing your findings and what the belt buckle components look like.
I'll take a look when I pull out my seats while cleaning the interior of my car. It's filthy after this swap. If I manage to break it, who cares. I'll just get another one from the junkyard.
One thing I'm worried about is plugging it in while the car is connected to the battery to test and see if the light turns off. Don't want the airbags possibly going off.
And yes, I've already tried resetting the SRS light. It just comes back on.
I'll take a look when I pull out my seats while cleaning the interior of my car. It's filthy after this swap. If I manage to break it, who cares. I'll just get another one from the junkyard.
Any 2G CL Graphite Black 04816-S3M-A13ZB from the model years below should do.
Since we're reviving an old thread from the dead, what is it about the seat belt buckle sensor that goes out? Is it not something that is easily fixable? Obviously, messing around with safety components isn't a good idea, but I don't really want to pay & have some one holding my car for two days just to swap out a buckle.
It's a sensor, it can't be that hard to fix, right? Is it maybe just a push button that tells the sensor that the seat belt is locked in place? Maybe the button just came loose? Maybe the solder needs to be reflowed? I still need to get mine fixed, so I might open it up and take a look, because the fix is a little ridiculous honestly.
It might only be a couple hours, not days. If they don’t stock the part, they will order it and you come back.
If some one reputable will fix my car for free, including parts and labor, I’ll do it.
09-13-2013, 11:22 AM
... but you have to be quick. FWIW I used a bent paper clip as a jumper. This is the second time my SRS light has come on, both times drivers seat-belt related. The first time I disconnected the battery to reset it. Obviously this is so much easier.
