Wicked tuning rear camber kit
03-27-2014, 06:35 PM
#1
Wicked tuning rear camber kit
So I got my tein comfort sport coilovers and then installed the wicked tuning rear camber kit.
And I was putting on my summers and noticed the bushing had slid out of the sleeve where it bolts to the vechicle.. So it was rubbing on the frame.
So I dunno what I should do.
Can I just get oem arms and run 1 or 2 degrees of camber?
Should I get the oem arms and then the ingalls smart arms. Or are the smart arms not necessary. I have a very minor drop in the rear. Most is in the front.
Or should I just buy the wicked tuning arms again measure them to make sure it does not change my settings and b done with it?
I will say the wicked tuning arms ball joint on both sides are super stiff. If u put channel locks on it and try to rotate the arms at all it barely budges.. They must be seized or something. And I got clicking coming from the rear of the car for years now when it's cold.
What would u do..
And I was putting on my summers and noticed the bushing had slid out of the sleeve where it bolts to the vechicle.. So it was rubbing on the frame.
So I dunno what I should do.
Can I just get oem arms and run 1 or 2 degrees of camber?
Should I get the oem arms and then the ingalls smart arms. Or are the smart arms not necessary. I have a very minor drop in the rear. Most is in the front.
Or should I just buy the wicked tuning arms again measure them to make sure it does not change my settings and b done with it?
I will say the wicked tuning arms ball joint on both sides are super stiff. If u put channel locks on it and try to rotate the arms at all it barely budges.. They must be seized or something. And I got clicking coming from the rear of the car for years now when it's cold.
What would u do..
03-27-2014, 07:03 PM
#3
That is what I was hoping to hear bud. So I will go with the normal arms then. Since they seem to have good ball joints and never cause a problem before. I should have kept them.
Do you think it is worth it to buy them from acura or just hit up partsource or napa?
Do you think it is worth it to buy them from acura or just hit up partsource or napa?
03-28-2014, 08:05 AM
#4
I really wish our car had more options, but oh well.
I have the ingalls smart arms and am not a fan. The bushings are soft and give out easily. Lots of people complaining about bushings giving out prematurely. They also go out of alignment when you hit bumps unless you modify them.
I also have a constant metal on metal clunk in the rear that is so annoying. I had my shocks rebuilt twice and still have problem. I replaced every ball joint and bushing. I added the ingalls arms.
I never noticed a clunk till I replaced everything and put coils on. When I was just on my koni's and no camber kit it was fine.
I have new oem arms. I might just use those and tryout the truhart rear camber kit for the 98-02 accord.
There is someone trying to do a groupbuy on custom arms on 6thgenaccord and other forums. I might buy those.
Last option I am considering is have a shop weld the oem bushings onto the ingalls arms.
I have the ingalls smart arms and am not a fan. The bushings are soft and give out easily. Lots of people complaining about bushings giving out prematurely. They also go out of alignment when you hit bumps unless you modify them.
I also have a constant metal on metal clunk in the rear that is so annoying. I had my shocks rebuilt twice and still have problem. I replaced every ball joint and bushing. I added the ingalls arms.
I never noticed a clunk till I replaced everything and put coils on. When I was just on my koni's and no camber kit it was fine.
I have new oem arms. I might just use those and tryout the truhart rear camber kit for the 98-02 accord.
There is someone trying to do a groupbuy on custom arms on 6thgenaccord and other forums. I might buy those.
Last option I am considering is have a shop weld the oem bushings onto the ingalls arms.
03-28-2014, 08:39 AM
#5
K so I tried fixing that exact issue by making the lower main bolt bigger that secures the shock to the knuckle to fill the 0.07 gap and that did nothing to fix the metal on metal sound.
I am hoping now it is my upper arms with the ball joint. Maybe they are the cause.
I am buying the arms from acura today. Their price is 87 each, partsource is 105 ish and napa is 114 each.
Wow the dlr is cheaper!
Brian do u have the oem arm with the ball joint still or did u get a camber kit? Make sure ur ball joints allow for some pivot. Mine are like stone and only slightly budge with big channel locks as leverage.
I pray to god this will fix that fucking metal on metal clunk sound . I am getting sick of covering it up with loud music. It's getting annoying now that I have put up with it for three years.
Hopefully it was my cheap ass not so wicked tuning camber kit that is the cause.
I will keep you all posted once they are installed... So Monday night or tuesday
I am hoping now it is my upper arms with the ball joint. Maybe they are the cause.
I am buying the arms from acura today. Their price is 87 each, partsource is 105 ish and napa is 114 each.
Wow the dlr is cheaper!
Brian do u have the oem arm with the ball joint still or did u get a camber kit? Make sure ur ball joints allow for some pivot. Mine are like stone and only slightly budge with big channel locks as leverage.
I pray to god this will fix that fucking metal on metal clunk sound . I am getting sick of covering it up with loud music. It's getting annoying now that I have put up with it for three years.
Hopefully it was my cheap ass not so wicked tuning camber kit that is the cause.
I will keep you all posted once they are installed... So Monday night or tuesday
Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 03-28-2014 at 08:47 AM.
03-31-2014, 07:32 PM
#7
So the install went well. No snags.. Took an hr..
Wicked tuning arms have a .500 receiver in the bushing. The oems have .480. And the bolt is .465
Upon removal the wicked tuning bushing on one side had sheared apart. And the ball joints were pretty darn stiff. The new ones were better in every way from what I could see, accept the price. 176
So the wicked tuning arms essentially come with the wrong bushings in my opinion.
Car is def better but not fixed. I think I am going to thicken the bolts up with some welds and grind it down to make it zero clearance.
Wicked tuning arms have a .500 receiver in the bushing. The oems have .480. And the bolt is .465
Upon removal the wicked tuning bushing on one side had sheared apart. And the ball joints were pretty darn stiff. The new ones were better in every way from what I could see, accept the price. 176
So the wicked tuning arms essentially come with the wrong bushings in my opinion.
Car is def better but not fixed. I think I am going to thicken the bolts up with some welds and grind it down to make it zero clearance.
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04-01-2014, 01:29 PM
#8
k so now that i have driven 50k or so with it its definitely 50% better.. before over little tiny bumps the rear was clicking away like crazy/.. now it's only clicking over actual bumps and once u get to 45kms it's gone pretty much.
I never knew the camber arm actual holds the trailing arms in alignment, and thus the upper arm (which i replaced) is not only taking up and down load, it's taking left/right - side/side load and that is what makes the clicking...
so i am sure if i get the bolts widened my story will have a happy fluffy ending.
so if you have that damn clicking coming from the rear it is likely cause u stiffened ur suspension and or added a sway bar and that will put extra counterforce on the rear and thus end up giggling the rear upper arm ever so slightly enough to make that damn sound.
hopefully this helps someone out and does not take them 3 years as it did me.
I never knew the camber arm actual holds the trailing arms in alignment, and thus the upper arm (which i replaced) is not only taking up and down load, it's taking left/right - side/side load and that is what makes the clicking...
so i am sure if i get the bolts widened my story will have a happy fluffy ending.
so if you have that damn clicking coming from the rear it is likely cause u stiffened ur suspension and or added a sway bar and that will put extra counterforce on the rear and thus end up giggling the rear upper arm ever so slightly enough to make that damn sound.
hopefully this helps someone out and does not take them 3 years as it did me.
04-01-2014, 03:55 PM
#9
I really wish our car had more options, but oh well.
I have the ingalls smart arms and am not a fan. The bushings are soft and give out easily. Lots of people complaining about bushings giving out prematurely. They also go out of alignment when you hit bumps unless you modify them.
I also have a constant metal on metal clunk in the rear that is so annoying. I had my shocks rebuilt twice and still have problem. I replaced every ball joint and bushing. I added the ingalls arms.
I never noticed a clunk till I replaced everything and put coils on. When I was just on my koni's and no camber kit it was fine.
I have new oem arms. I might just use those and tryout the truhart rear camber kit for the 98-02 accord.
There is someone trying to do a groupbuy on custom arms on 6thgenaccord and other forums. I might buy those.
Last option I am considering is have a shop weld the oem bushings onto the ingalls arms.
I have the ingalls smart arms and am not a fan. The bushings are soft and give out easily. Lots of people complaining about bushings giving out prematurely. They also go out of alignment when you hit bumps unless you modify them.
I also have a constant metal on metal clunk in the rear that is so annoying. I had my shocks rebuilt twice and still have problem. I replaced every ball joint and bushing. I added the ingalls arms.
I never noticed a clunk till I replaced everything and put coils on. When I was just on my koni's and no camber kit it was fine.
I have new oem arms. I might just use those and tryout the truhart rear camber kit for the 98-02 accord.
There is someone trying to do a groupbuy on custom arms on 6thgenaccord and other forums. I might buy those.
Last option I am considering is have a shop weld the oem bushings onto the ingalls arms.
04-04-2014, 09:06 AM
#10
Hello troll who only posts in response to me and all negative. You have never contributed anything to this forum.
Oh yea g*d is really punishing me. Is that why I live in such a nice house and have extra money to mod my 2nd car. If this is punishment then I want more of it.
Back on topic. Cls-progression I have the oem upper arms. My rear only makes noise over big bumps that stick up out of the road like mini speed bumps. When the road dips down it makes no noise and is fine 90 percent of the time. I need to check all the bolts and see if they are loose/have extra room to move. I will figure it out this year for sure. If I can't figure it out I will have king motorsports look at it.
Oh yea g*d is really punishing me. Is that why I live in such a nice house and have extra money to mod my 2nd car. If this is punishment then I want more of it.
Back on topic. Cls-progression I have the oem upper arms. My rear only makes noise over big bumps that stick up out of the road like mini speed bumps. When the road dips down it makes no noise and is fine 90 percent of the time. I need to check all the bolts and see if they are loose/have extra room to move. I will figure it out this year for sure. If I can't figure it out I will have king motorsports look at it.
04-04-2014, 12:25 PM
#11
Hello troll who only posts in response to me and all negative. You have never contributed anything to this forum.
Oh yea g*d is really punishing me. Is that why I live in such a nice house and have extra money to mod my 2nd car. If this is punishment then I want more of it.
Back on topic. Cls-progression I have the oem upper arms. My rear only makes noise over big bumps that stick up out of the road like mini speed bumps. When the road dips down it makes no noise and is fine 90 percent of the time. I need to check all the bolts and see if they are loose/have extra room to move. I will figure it out this year for sure. If I can't figure it out I will have king motorsports look at it.
Oh yea g*d is really punishing me. Is that why I live in such a nice house and have extra money to mod my 2nd car. If this is punishment then I want more of it.
Back on topic. Cls-progression I have the oem upper arms. My rear only makes noise over big bumps that stick up out of the road like mini speed bumps. When the road dips down it makes no noise and is fine 90 percent of the time. I need to check all the bolts and see if they are loose/have extra room to move. I will figure it out this year for sure. If I can't figure it out I will have king motorsports look at it.
Must feel pretty low to have to brag about living at mommy and daddy's
Please tell all of us how you got all this money? Are you a business owner? Inherited it from daddy?Here's your award for bragging about that
04-05-2014, 09:29 AM
#12
LOL i see my thread has taken an interesting turn.
just remember brian... people only get singled out by others because there is something unique about them that they envy. by ridiculing them these people are actually lying to themselves and hiding the fact they actually wish they were in the position of those they are making fun of.
so if someone singles you out to "poke fun at you" its usually cause they wish they were in your shoes.
don't lie topspeed. you wish you could leave this form and move on to the car you really want. but thats just not going to happen now is it.
LOL
psychology is a mo fo.
ON TOPIC:
brian I am 100% sure it is the bolts in the upper arms, the car barely makes the clicking sounds now that i have driven a lot it is quite clear its much better. so much so i contemplate take the bolts out and making them large cause i have adjusted to 3 years of that clicking so now it's barely exists..
but i wanna fix it once and for all which will be truly gratifying.
so what u are hearing is the .015 gap between the bolt and the receiver and when u hit a bump the click is actually (the side to side motion) which is the opposite way the bushing is designed (it allows for up and down movement) that click is the little space between the bolt and reciever.
now i am going to reef on the bolts with a breaker bar and tighten them as much as possible to ensure that alone wont fix the issue.
i will also say the wicked tuning bushings are about 1mm shorter and thus slide right in the slot to bolt them in (allowing for a tun of play). the oem arms fit tightly in place before even putting the bolt in place.
I am just happy i finally tracked down this damn issue. i dont even remember my car being quiet anymore lol
just remember brian... people only get singled out by others because there is something unique about them that they envy. by ridiculing them these people are actually lying to themselves and hiding the fact they actually wish they were in the position of those they are making fun of.
so if someone singles you out to "poke fun at you" its usually cause they wish they were in your shoes.
don't lie topspeed. you wish you could leave this form and move on to the car you really want. but thats just not going to happen now is it.
LOL
psychology is a mo fo.
ON TOPIC:
brian I am 100% sure it is the bolts in the upper arms, the car barely makes the clicking sounds now that i have driven a lot it is quite clear its much better. so much so i contemplate take the bolts out and making them large cause i have adjusted to 3 years of that clicking so now it's barely exists..
but i wanna fix it once and for all which will be truly gratifying.
so what u are hearing is the .015 gap between the bolt and the receiver and when u hit a bump the click is actually (the side to side motion) which is the opposite way the bushing is designed (it allows for up and down movement) that click is the little space between the bolt and reciever.
now i am going to reef on the bolts with a breaker bar and tighten them as much as possible to ensure that alone wont fix the issue.
i will also say the wicked tuning bushings are about 1mm shorter and thus slide right in the slot to bolt them in (allowing for a tun of play). the oem arms fit tightly in place before even putting the bolt in place.
I am just happy i finally tracked down this damn issue. i dont even remember my car being quiet anymore lol
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