Marcelechka

You driving this thing yet? Still waiting on vids!!!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Not until the 2.8 is finished. Gotta have the bottom end forged as I plan on running way more than 12-14lbs of boost. 90mm x 71.6mm is gonna be a screamer.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Say hello to the first, future sleeved 2.8 j-series

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Where in the hell have YOU been?!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

been just here brother....

took a trip to India recently and just got back couple days back...now am in Dallas for work....

I will be back in Dallas soon, lets meet up then

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, for sure man. PM me when you know the next date and we can make a date.

Good to hear from ya man.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Figured I'd give everyone somewhat of an update and post up some pics of the crankshaft that is going to add the magic into this 2.5 build. I weighed it in last night and it weighs 34lbs. Just so you know how light that is, the j37a1 crank weighs 48lbs!
The Bob-weights themselves also make the crank look so much smaller.

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

Carmelo

Sorry to bother you, but I opened the account today and doesn't allow me to start a new post.

2005 Acura TL. Radio doesn't works fine. The volume is too low, even in 40. Anyone knows about that problem?

Can call or text me. 787 316 0896

Thanks!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Even though this isn't an ideal place to post a random 3G TL question about a radio, I'll gladly oblige you with my best guess.

The only time I really see the 3G TL's come into my shop (electrically speaking) is when they have drains coming from the instrument cluster OR when the amplifier in the passeneger kick panel has failed causing the audio to become too low or excessively distorted.

Welcome to the forum!

Btw Eric, I sure do see you lurking a LOT...what are you doing over there sir? Might it have any thing to do with that new j37 you just received? Lol

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

Actually I've been busy working on other (boring) stuff but I did get the J37 all cleaned up and inspected. Fortunately this engine was properly stored. All the plugs were removed and oil squirted into the cylinders. I pulled all the plugs out and cleaned the oil in the plug holes (minor annoyance) and checked out the cylinders with a scope camera. All minty fresh just as expected. The engine still has the original break-in oil in it. Definitely a nice specimen.

fsttyms1

Id love to see a 9k rpm screamer. I still want to get another 3.7 crank and have it lightened and balanced with a new set of lightened and balanced rods and pistons. I had a 3.5 crank lightened and they got over 7lbs off of it and were able to balance it easily (until fed ex dropped it, looked more like it was thrown out of a plane, during shipping and fucked it up)

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Definitely sounds like it man. Hopefully this motor gives you better results than the last one did.

Btw, there's an update on your j37 valvetrain thread.

I was wondering what happened to you a few nights back and then here you are Kris, haha. Good to hear from you my friend.

I must admit your story made me lol, it's the sad truth. Don't know how many spark plug tubes on heads they've bent or damaged due to handling neglect. Finally realized that if you write FRAGILE twenty times on the box and then double box each head using double bubble wrap between the boxes you get them there in one piece. Shit man, that sucks. I have a j35a8 (brand new) and j37a1 (used) crank for ya if you need a good price on one.

Also, how's that engine of yours doing? Anything new and exciting on it or the rocker mod thing you figured out?

****UPDATE****


Even though I don't have everything I need to actually start assembling the motor, I mocked up the block and heads to show you guys how great she's gonna look. J37A4 heads sitting on top of a J35A6 block.





Here's the current situation...a few things have changed. I was originally going to run a 90mm piston but due to a greater weight advantage over using the lighter 89mm as well as the 89mm pistons being an on the shelf stocked part, I've decided on the smaller piston. The k24 89mm piston also uses a 1.18" compression height which is the same as the J25 stroke requirements (as well as several other j-motors) when used on this deck height. This gives me a HUGE advantage on having multiple compression ratio choices which will probably be 9.45:1 depending on how much the stock MLS head gasket compresses to. I've read .027" a few times but want to confirm this myself. As for the weight advantage, the 90mm piston is a significantly heavier design when comparing it with an 89mm piston of similar material and design. It's a near 60g difference (!!!) and I MUST have a light piston because the motor will be seeing roughly 8500-9000 RPM's regularly and a heavy piston on top of a heavy long rod from the short stroke/tall deck will be added strain on the rotating assembly.

The other big change was sleeving the block. It's an expense that I wasn't convinced I needed in the j-series. I'm not gonna go into great detail on this part but after talking to two companies that regularly deal with boosted sand cars running j-motors, I'm convinced that if these guys can run stock steel sleeves at 20-25lbs in a brutal environment, I can too. About as far as they go in block strengthening is dowel pinning the cylinder walls. Some of you may remember my old j32a2 block having this done where steel dowels (pins) are inserted into specially drilled holes between the top of the cylinders and the top of the block deck. This simply gives structural integrity to the barrel tops thereby preventing resonance caused by extreme cylinder pressures. This resonance is what begins to split sleeves and/or destroy MLS head gaskets.

So it's coming down to basically running off the shelf Wiseco k24 lowered top land pistons, Carrillo billet rods @169mm C-C length (j37 rod is 12mm shorter!), stock J25A crank with micro polished journals as well as shotpeened and rehardened, 72mm main & 55mm rod factory Honda bearings (j37 uses 60mm rod bearings), and of course ARP fasteners for mains and rods. Afterwards all the mismatched non factory parts will be balanced with flywheel at a very prestigious machine shop half way across the country that does 70% of NASCAR engines. This is only skimming the surface on details for the engine but I'll keep those for another post/update.

TehCL

9k RPM J-Series? Uhhh... Yes please lol

I have this itch to do a J Swap into my car & scrap my 4cyl plans, coming into this thread just makes it WAY worse

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

After the intense research brought on by this current project, I have a great deal of respect for properly built Honda four cylinders. Most people that race them professionally have defined them as some of the greatest engines in the world as far design and purpose go.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Mocking up the j25a crank into the j35a6 block:



Oh ya, that just happened.

fsttyms1

Yea, im around. Busy time of year for work and i have been trying like crazy to get the body work done on my car to make it to the national zine meet (though i may be going with an unfinished car

Engine is doing great. closing in on 10k miles. Running strong. I get teh occasional random misfire code when the motor is cold, but im pretty sure it has to do with the light weight flywheel. I still need to do what is needed to get the thing tuned. If you are still in possession of the 3.7 or a 3.7 crank this fall or winter i may take you up on it and see if i can get it lightened and put in my motor


Your project is making me want to start another one... Damn you. Damn you!!!! I have always wanted a high reving J motor. I know these motors are very stout and capable, they just need a little innovation from those like you willing to try.

fsttyms1

They way they are engineered and assembled its easy to see how they can handle the tortures the aftermarket community can put them thru. I dont see the J being any different, and capable.

JarrettLauderdale

I should have looked for those pistons for my 2.3L F20B build. I'm using K20Z3 pistons that are 86mm bore, 1.181" compression height, 22mm pin bore, with a 4.25cc dome. Those look like a much bigger dome and fit all of the other spec requirements perfectly.

Corey_Straker

This is making me want to get the ball rolling on my J37a1 build so badly. Thanks for answering all my questions. Can't wait too see this beast run.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Great stuff going on in here!

HickamHatch

What happened to you?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I'm still around, I text you a few days ago with my new cell number but you never responded!

Yumcha

Wow.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Block fully prepped. Final hone was taken with a 240 grit. Assembly starts as soon as pistons and rods arrive.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

:fap:

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

HickamHatch

i replied....

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

xlerate

Hey its levi with the red hatch. just checking in. hit me up with some updates please 307 630 8612

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I need your halp too.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

* Eric, how dare you put a tumbleweed in my thread.

* Levi, Aug 1st is deadline.

* Justin, you just tell me what you need and I'm there home....is it time for the turbo RL? HAHAHA

***UPDATE***

Been waiting to order the rods due to very possible likelihood of deck height modifications in hopes of allowing the use of smaller/lighter rods. Pistons are here. Wiseco -9cc dish will be used with the stock 30mm compression height. Right now I'm planning on using the Ford 5.4 modular rods using a 6.578" center to center. They possess slightly smaller BE and SE diameters and are also slightly wider but will be easy to machine and will be MUCH cheaper than having a custom set made. Eagle makes the Ford 5.4 rods for $400 for some h-beams.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Mmmm, sooooo yummy. ..

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

Sweet!

ReLaX

youngone501;


I've been going through this page by page (on page 20 now) and this is the damned finest thing I've seen on the internets in awhile. You have an expressive way with words, commiserate and respond to others and, most importantly, you provide a ton of pics. This could easily have been a made for TV reality show and I would have watched every minute of it!


Thank you for taking the time to share your passion with us. You are a modern day renaissance man, and I mean that literally.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I appreciate that comment, really. The cool thing about working with cars (and engines) in general is sharing experiences and knowledge with others who have the same passion. When I took the shop over I've worked at for over 10 years, I reflected back and thought how quickly the time passed and also how lucky I am to get to do what I love doing EVERY day. And the best part of this all is I'm getting paid to do it!

But again, that's very cool of you to lift up another by saying something positive about their efforts. Makes me enjoy what I do more so.

***UPDATE***

Ok well, things are finally beginning to come to a head here with this unique engine build and MAN has this been both a quest and a challenge. As previously mentioned, I've been considering the use of the Ford modular 5.4 Eagle connecting rods for the build and didn't realize how lucky I was. I ended up ordering one rod for specs from Eagle and I swear Ford must've taken the blueprints directly from Honda because these things are close to exactly what I needed. Here's what we got:

J-series 2.5 V6 rod specs:
- 6.660" center to center length
- 2.220 big end (BE) bore diameter w/2.08" on the rod journals themselves
- .867" small end (SE) bore diameter
- .740" width on both BE and SE

Ford 5.4 (330ci) modular V8 rod specs:
- 6.657" center to center length
- 2.230" BE bore diameter w/2.08" on the rod journals themselves
- .867" SE bore diameter
- .937" width on both BE and SE

As you can see there are four basic measurements to a connecting rod. Not always but in most cases if these four factors are the same, the rod can be used. The piston pin diameters are the exact same at .867" or 22mm's. The center to center has a difference of .003" which would probably not even be detectable when checking piston to deck clearance but because its shorter with Eagle rods, this can easily be offset by milling/resurfacing the deck down just a tad....IF that becomes a measurable issue. Then, there's the BE bore that carries the same rod journal diameter at 2.08" (or 53mm) on the crankshaft itself and the variance between the BE bores (from the 2.20" to the 2.30") of .010" can easily be dealt with by using the stock 5.4 rod bearings. Lastly, the width difference between the two rods is going to be the only part of this that will require machining at all. There's a difference of .197" or 5mm between these widths. If you have ever looked at the side of any connecting rod, you may have noticed something called a "brim" which is purposely made in design for a machinable material pad. This brim is made intentionally much wider than spec so that the mill can remove an appropriate amount of material off in accordance to blueprint width specs. Since the 5.4 rod brims are wider than the 2.5 spec, I simply have 2.5mm of material removed from each side of a rod.

Single rod should arrive here in the next day or two. I'll post pics of course and then results of before and after machine work.

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

If you are going to machine the Ford rod narrower, then what bearing are you going to use that will fit the narrower rod?

JarrettLauderdale

The bearing width is much more narrow than the width of the rod that you may be able to machine the rod and not touch the bearings. This is the same type of issue I ran into when installing F20B rods onto an F23A crankshaft. Both had 48mm big end openings, but the F20B rod was .935" wide and the F23A journal was .780" wide.

Robert, NASCAR builders have been using Honda bearings for years now. The smaller amount of surface area that the smaller sizes offer them, in addition to a supposed superior metallurgical make-up, caused teams to use them pretty early on. Usually you hear about it with Chevy guys. You can even buy SBC rods designed for "Honda" bearing dimensions. I guess the OEMs took notice at some point. That 5.4L has been out since 1997, and Roush did have a hand in the modular Ford development.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

This was already thought of and I'm kind of hoping for exact what Jarrett explained in his post about the bearing being narrower than the actual rod journal itself. Although I don't feel like the stock Ford bearing will be less than the width of .742" which would make it over 5mm narrower than the Ford rod....though I will remain hopeful. That's actually next on my list of things to do is ordering the stock Ford rod bearings specifically to spec that.

Option two would be of course machining down the bearing in a manner that creates no change whatsoever in the design/shape of itself. I've ran this by my coworker (who did CNC machining prior to automotive) and he had a brilliant idea of making a contraption that would cup the bearing on both sides using padded walls for the rod journal side made to the exact height of the required width to stop at. Then there would be a task of de-burring the bearing edge....can you tell this has been discussed a few times before? Lol.

I have thought about the whole switch from using OEM Honda bearings and I don't like the idea. But if it allows me to follow through with this build I guess I may have to. As you said, it's pretty obvious that Ford took somebody else's advice on the design specs of the modular engine and I'm just thankful I've found a solution to a set of "off-the-shelf" 950hp rods that cost half as much as they would've from Pauter or Carrillo to make. And that's including ARP rod bolts.

I've also found other solutions during my research for other displacements in the j-series such as the 3.5 as well as the 3.7 engines. Those rods carry 6.250" and 6.200" center to center which is a VERY popular rod length in many of your NASCAR engines and (as you mentioned) using stock Honda rod journal diameters.

But that's another day and another post....possibly another thread.