When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You cant run an unsprung clutch disk on the lighweight flywheel.
smh Order has shipped... I'll have to return (w/ 25% restocking fee). The CSR said I could run it, but it wouldn't be comfortable for daily driving. Suggested clutch masters stage 3 with the power goals I potentially may have. I'll go that route after I send back the wrong part.
Thanks for the heads-up civic.
In other news, I picked up my new battery (51R) from Advance Autoparts for the install tomorrow. Surprised at how much smaller it is versus the stock spec. Spent $139 on it, but I'll get $13 back when I return the old one.
Are you sure that clutch would have even fit your car? Says on the site 2.2-2.3 only and ive never heard of anyone on here running one
Originally Posted by civicdrivr
Good catch.
It shows up when I select my vehicle and year, so I guess? Either way, I'll have to get an RMA issued for the return once it arrives. Going to grab the stage 3 (although out of my budget); I'd rather build it right the first time around.
I only have $2.4k left to play with... considering tuning & suspension that is still needed, I can't afford any more errors on my part.
Suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Last edited by Marcelechka; 07-27-2012 at 05:26 PM.
recently saw your videos. Look good. Did you go straight into the high boost pulley or did you run the std pulley first?
Thanks Mas.
Dove right into the HPB with tune. A couple months later, I ordered the 3.2" pulley from South Florida Pulley. Others here went with the 3.3" s/c shaft pulley & 3.275 alternator configuration. I went with the 3.2" to gain back the [slight] pressure loss due to the IC piping. As of now (depending on weather), I'm seeing +/- 9 to 10lbs on the gauge... Typically in the early morning when it's cool out & there aren't any cars on the road, wheels break loose in 2nd at WOT. Which speaking of, I need new / better stickies
The meth plays a bigger role than many would think; the intake manifold along with the IC piping is ridiculously cold to the touch... like really cold... to the point with it gets sweaty lol
You're some what local; I'm down to meet up one of these days to check out your whip
Apologies I haven't been updating this as much as I should Gnuts. I'll post pics & vids as soon as I'm done with it. Done as in the remaining items on my check list for install
looks clean! I've been contemplating a meth kit. do you have to have tuning to run it?
in for videos!
Yup; I purchased Libert69's old kit (he's over on the 3G TL side). It's a stage 2 kit which can be activated by the detection of either voltage or boost pressure. I currently have it set to start spraying at 4lbs and set full spray at 8lbs.
The kit comes with two led injection status lights which tells you if: low fluid, staging, initial, & full spray.
Dove right into the HPB with tune. A couple months later, I ordered the 3.2" pulley from South Florida Pulley. Others here went with the 3.3" s/c shaft pulley & 3.275 alternator configuration. I went with the 3.2" to gain back the [slight] pressure loss due to the IC piping. As of now (depending on weather), I'm seeing +/- 9 to 10lbs on the gauge... Typically in the early morning when it's cool out & there aren't any cars on the road, wheels break loose in 2nd at WOT. Which speaking of, I need new / better stickies
The meth plays a bigger role than many would think; the intake manifold along with the IC piping is ridiculously cold to the touch... like really cold... to the point with it gets sweaty lol
You're some what local; I'm down to meet up one of these days to check out your whip
By the way......i am not 100% percent sure as i am not an expert in this type of modding but i believe you will want to mount that solenoid really close to the injection point on the intake pipe for 2 reasons. 1) when you finished flooring it the solenoid closes and the rest of the line from the trunk to the engine bay is still filled with meth and it gets sucked in which is the reason to have the solenoid in the first place. 2) when you do floor it again now you will be waiting for the pump to fill that part of the line downstream of the solenoid before it actually reaches the intake pipe nozzle. If you place it really close the to injection point (i had to redo mine as well) then the meth injection will be more immediate with less lag because the lines will already be primed and you will not be sucking it and wasting meth once your done flooring it.
Once again i'm not a meth kit expert but i am an engineer and that is the only way it makes sense to me.
Also i used the wiper tank as my meth tank and i love it because everything is in the engine bay and no lost trunk space. Something you may want to look into if you are already moving the solenoid up front to. I've got pics and info on using the wiper tank if your interested too.
So back to the HBP, just bought mine. Not ready to install yet because i need to resolve a CEL that gives me a slight studder during closed loop but once i get that resolved HBP should be going on. Lets see how it goes.
Anyways, lets try to get together and compare notes.
looks clean! I've been contemplating a meth kit. do you have to have tuning to run it?
in for videos!
I dont think you need tuning with a meth kit as it just detects the boost pressure and sprays when it reaches a certain psi. Some tuning software can give you more control though, although I dont think it's needed.
Regarding tuning for meth....ideally you get it tuned to:
1) to make sure meth is kicking in the right amount (make sure ur using the right nozzle size per kit instructions) and to make sure it is being triggered at ideal time for optimum power.
2) theoretically your tuner can now squeeze out a little more power (advanced timing and such) because you have the meth kicking in to eliminate knock potential.
All that being said, you dont HAVE to get tuned again is you are satisfied with how its running and feel no issues or power loss.
PS----my "I'm not an expert" disclaimer still applies
Yeah I forgot to add the part about the timing, good point, although the ECU can auto-adjust that based on what it detects. Since he mentioned the manifold is now cold due to the intercooler and water/meth, I'd be surprised if he's not getting the most out of the timing, but I could be wrong. I think some tuning software can also active it based on rpm vs psi...
I dont think you need tuning with a meth kit as it just detects the boost pressure and sprays when it reaches a certain psi. Some tuning software can give you more control though, although I dont think it's needed.
Looking good Cel
Thanks Brian
Originally Posted by MAS
Regarding tuning for meth....ideally you get it tuned to:
1) to make sure meth is kicking in the right amount (make sure ur using the right nozzle size per kit instructions) and to make sure it is being triggered at ideal time for optimum power.
2) theoretically your tuner can now squeeze out a little more power (advanced timing and such) because you have the meth kicking in to eliminate knock potential.
All that being said, you dont HAVE to get tuned again is you are satisfied with how its running and feel no issues or power loss.
PS----my "I'm not an expert" disclaimer still applies
I ran into the issue of the nozzle being entirely to big for my application at first... Libert was running the 625ml/min nozzle (meant for 475 to 600hp) on his J&R turbo kit. Since the nozzle came with the kit and it isn't number or marked when I brought it from Bruce, I didn't know until I spoke to him directly. Boy was the car running SUPER rich; dipped straight into 10.1 and stayed there once the kit started spraying
I've since installed the correct nozzle (175ml/min - 250 to 375hp).
In regards to when to start spraying, the tuner assisted with that. Do note there is not software for this particular meth kit. It's either on or off (initial & or full disbursement of course).
Regarding the timing, this particular piggyback does not advance, it can only retard
As the Emanage unit is dated and limited in it capabilities, it works for the current application with no issues which is add & remove fuel when needed.
Yeah I forgot to add the part about the timing, good point, although the ECU can auto-adjust that based on what it detects. Since he mentioned the manifold is now cold due to the intercooler and water/meth, I'd be surprised if he's not getting the most out of the timing, but I could be wrong. I think some tuning software can also active it based on rpm vs psi...
Yeah, the MAF Boost Controller can only be triggered by voltage detection (1 to 5v) or pressure (1 to 19psi)
I was reading about the snow meth kit and it talks about the benefits of spraying before the blower on our type of supercharger. any thoughts on this?
if you use the windshield reservoir, can you put in a small reservoir somewhere to still have some washer fluid?
Hey Gnuts, apologies for the delay in response. Currently on vacation with the Mrs
IMO I don't believe spraying before the blower would be beneficial as it could very well lead to actually damaging it... I haven't read anyone on here ever doing that, so I couldn't tell you?
Regarding the windshield reservoir, you could totally do that if you find the space... it's super tight in there to begin with
We located the battery below the the blower; easily accessible to give or get jumped
I read in the FAQ section on the snow meth site about spraying before the blower. I was just curious. I'm thinking about doing a meth kit in the spring but we'll see. The car drives great right now and needs nothing. But I'm getting that itch again. HBP and meth?
I read in the FAQ section on the snow meth site about spraying before the blower. I was just curious. I'm thinking about doing a meth kit in the spring but we'll see. The car drives great right now and needs nothing. But I'm getting that itch again. HBP and meth?
Yeah, once you get the itch, it never ends from there lol
Do you remember what bends were used? Trying to make a parts list. Looks like a 90 silicone coupling, 90 bend and a 45? That pic alone helps a lot, thanks!
I believe you are correct. Also, you can't see it from the angle in which the picture was taken, but there's piping connected to the throttle body, which connects to the 90 coupler bend.
Probably a stupid question, but why are the turbine part of the superchargers sometimes black while others are silver?
Like this car:
From the research i have done on the comptech blowers the ones with the black casing are an older design while the silvers are a newer one. I wondered the same thing as you until i ran across the answer on this forum a long time ago
Do you think those ridges on the ends of the pipe will affect anything? I think all you'd need is a silicone 90, an aluminum 90 (1foot), and a two foot aluminum 90, couplings and filter.
07-27-2012, 07:46 AM
, I have some funds to play with it and ordered additional parts from www.horsepowerfreaks.com; see below:
Order has shipped... I'll have to return (w/ 25% restocking fee). The CSR said I could run it, but it wouldn't be comfortable for daily driving. Suggested clutch masters stage 3 with the power goals I potentially may have. I'll go that route after I send back the wrong part. 
