Mini H1 Projector Retrofit DIY Writeup and Aiming Procedure *56k extensive
07-13-2010, 02:54 PM
#1
Staggered 1st Gen
Thread Starter
Mini H1 Projector Retrofit DIY Writeup and Aiming Procedure *56k extensive
Tools needed:
-14mm 12mm and 10mm sockets
-wrench with extention wands
-heatgun or Oven
-flathead screwdriver
-plastic lens cleaner or eye glass solution
-several microfiber towels
-rtv clear silicone or any caulk sealant
-pair of h1 mini projectors
-pair of h1 hid xenon bulbs
optional
-dremel with diamond cutoff discs or grinder
-angel eye ccfl rings
-black spray paint
-bubble leveler
Ok, first step is obviously removing your vehicle's front bumper. There
are several threads in this forum on that procedure, so I won't delve into
the details of it. For me, removing the fenderwell screws and the 4 bolts
attaching the bumper to the body around the lower grill area allowed me
to slide the bumper out and down enough so that I had ample clearance
to remove the headlights without completely taking off the bumper. I placed
microfiber towels on each side wrapped around the 'bumper lips' near the fenderwell area so that
the paint didn't get scratches when maneuvering:
Once exposed, there should be several 10mm bolts holding the headlights
onto the body of the car....in my case, there were 5 on each headlight (locations highlighted in
red). Remove these screws along with both the high and lowbeam and corner light bulbs/sockets
and carefully remove both headlights.
Now you're ready to open them up. You can either place both headlights
into an oven set@350 to 375 degrees via Bake setting and heat them up
for around 5 to 10 minutes. OR you can opt for the other method which is
heating up the perimeter of the headlights with a standard heatgun. I've
utilized the baking method on previous retros and prefer the heatgun
method myself, as it's more controlled and allows direct manipulation.
If using a heatgun, use the LOWEST heat setting and slowly go around the
perimiter of the entire headlamp until the housing is warm to the touch.
Heating it for no more than 5 minutes should do the trick. Then using a flathead screwdriver, carefully insert
the head in between the plastic lens and the housing, gently 'pry' the
headlight apart, making sure to unhook the little 'tabs' placed throughout
the housing. Continue using the heatgun as necessary until the entire assembly
comes apart.
Next, you'll want to remove the stock 9006 lowbeam glare shield. This
is either held on by a torx screw or a regular screw. In my case, it
was a special torx screw with the raised 'nipple' in the middle, which I did not have a bit for.
However, I was able to use the 'tip' of a micro flathead screwdriver to
unscrew it...by lodging the head un between the nipple and the perimiter
of the torx bolt. Repeat on both sides.
Next, turn each headlight over and carefully remove the lowbeam
rubber boot as well as the 9006 bulb retaining clip. In my case,
the rubber boot was held in by a metal bracket denoted by the 3
philips screws, and then the 9006 bulb holder was held in by an
additional 3 screws. Remove all of these on both sides, til all
you're left with is just the bulb hole and nothing else.
Next, remove the h1 bulb holder clips from the rear of each projector unit, held in by
3 small philips screws denoted by the red circles. Please the screws and the bulb holders/clips to the side for now.
Here is where the fitment of the projector is all dependent upon the design of
your housing's lowbeam reflector. Some (the majority) require absolutely no modification at all, while
others are extremely cramped and concave, requiring slight modification.
Carefully take one of your mini h1 projectors, making sure it's oriented rightside up,
and testfit it by placing the projector unit through the stock lowbeam hole opening, allowing
the threads to stick out of the rear as much as possible. Then take one of the supplied h7 metal adapter
rings supplied with the kit and fit it over the rear of the projector until it sits as
flush against the headlight housing as possible. In the case of the CL headlights, 3
small areas of the headlight assembly had to be slightly 'shaved down' in order for the
metal ring to sit flush, as denoted by the red areas. These are all very soft plastic
areas and can be grinded/shaved down with the edge of any dremel cutting or sanding disc.
-14mm 12mm and 10mm sockets
-wrench with extention wands
-heatgun or Oven
-flathead screwdriver
-plastic lens cleaner or eye glass solution
-several microfiber towels
-rtv clear silicone or any caulk sealant
-pair of h1 mini projectors
-pair of h1 hid xenon bulbs
optional
-dremel with diamond cutoff discs or grinder
-angel eye ccfl rings
-black spray paint
-bubble leveler
Ok, first step is obviously removing your vehicle's front bumper. There
are several threads in this forum on that procedure, so I won't delve into
the details of it. For me, removing the fenderwell screws and the 4 bolts
attaching the bumper to the body around the lower grill area allowed me
to slide the bumper out and down enough so that I had ample clearance
to remove the headlights without completely taking off the bumper. I placed
microfiber towels on each side wrapped around the 'bumper lips' near the fenderwell area so that
the paint didn't get scratches when maneuvering:
Once exposed, there should be several 10mm bolts holding the headlights
onto the body of the car....in my case, there were 5 on each headlight (locations highlighted in
red). Remove these screws along with both the high and lowbeam and corner light bulbs/sockets
and carefully remove both headlights.
Now you're ready to open them up. You can either place both headlights
into an oven set@350 to 375 degrees via Bake setting and heat them up
for around 5 to 10 minutes. OR you can opt for the other method which is
heating up the perimeter of the headlights with a standard heatgun. I've
utilized the baking method on previous retros and prefer the heatgun
method myself, as it's more controlled and allows direct manipulation.
If using a heatgun, use the LOWEST heat setting and slowly go around the
perimiter of the entire headlamp until the housing is warm to the touch.
Heating it for no more than 5 minutes should do the trick. Then using a flathead screwdriver, carefully insert
the head in between the plastic lens and the housing, gently 'pry' the
headlight apart, making sure to unhook the little 'tabs' placed throughout
the housing. Continue using the heatgun as necessary until the entire assembly
comes apart.
Next, you'll want to remove the stock 9006 lowbeam glare shield. This
is either held on by a torx screw or a regular screw. In my case, it
was a special torx screw with the raised 'nipple' in the middle, which I did not have a bit for.
However, I was able to use the 'tip' of a micro flathead screwdriver to
unscrew it...by lodging the head un between the nipple and the perimiter
of the torx bolt. Repeat on both sides.
Next, turn each headlight over and carefully remove the lowbeam
rubber boot as well as the 9006 bulb retaining clip. In my case,
the rubber boot was held in by a metal bracket denoted by the 3
philips screws, and then the 9006 bulb holder was held in by an
additional 3 screws. Remove all of these on both sides, til all
you're left with is just the bulb hole and nothing else.
Next, remove the h1 bulb holder clips from the rear of each projector unit, held in by
3 small philips screws denoted by the red circles. Please the screws and the bulb holders/clips to the side for now.
Here is where the fitment of the projector is all dependent upon the design of
your housing's lowbeam reflector. Some (the majority) require absolutely no modification at all, while
others are extremely cramped and concave, requiring slight modification.
Carefully take one of your mini h1 projectors, making sure it's oriented rightside up,
and testfit it by placing the projector unit through the stock lowbeam hole opening, allowing
the threads to stick out of the rear as much as possible. Then take one of the supplied h7 metal adapter
rings supplied with the kit and fit it over the rear of the projector until it sits as
flush against the headlight housing as possible. In the case of the CL headlights, 3
small areas of the headlight assembly had to be slightly 'shaved down' in order for the
metal ring to sit flush, as denoted by the red areas. These are all very soft plastic
areas and can be grinded/shaved down with the edge of any dremel cutting or sanding disc.
Last edited by 97BlackAckCL; 07-15-2010 at 01:10 PM.
07-13-2010, 02:54 PM
#2
Staggered 1st Gen
Thread Starter
Follow this up by taking one of the
aluminum locking rings (also supplied in the kit) and screwing it down all the way
until it's hand tight. If everything does well, you should still see around 2 or 3 exposed
threads sticking out of the rear of the projector unit. However, on the CL, it's such a tight
fit that there were no threads exposed even after tightening the locking ring down...thus
I could not re-install the h1 bulb clip. That is also seen in the picture above.
To alleviate this, I had to shave down both the top of the 9006 glare shield bracket
as well as some of the reflector area below the bulb hole, due to the fact it 'protrudes' outwards
and prevents the projector to sit back any further. This was easily accomplished with a dremel
and the edge of a black diamond cutting disc. As you can see, I grinded down the top of
the glare shield mounting bracket to almost the level of the screwhole itself.
I accidentally shaved down too much of the reflector housing itself and made a tiny hole,
which doesn't affect anything and will be eventually covered up by the stock rubber boot
anyways. You can clean off all cutting dust/debris from the reflector housing with a gentle
stream of water, then drying off with a microfiber towel. Don't use any chemical cleaners:
The LAST thing I had to do to make the projector completely fit was to grind down
the top of both of the aluminum locking rings.
Again, this was just for my particular car...you
may or may not need to do the same. In order to do this, I carefully placed each locking
ring on the ground laying face up (do NOT grind down the bottom....the bottom is completely flat
while the top has a slight curvature to it). I then placed a cloth over one side of the ring
and held it down with my left hand, then used the edge of the black diamond dremel cutting disc to 'grind down' the locking
ring around the entire circumference.
You'll need to use the towel because the aluminum ring gets VERY hot due to the speed
and friction generated by the grinding. This may take around 5 minutes per ring but it will
eventually grind down. You want to essentially grind it down so that it is around half of
its original width. Be sure to leave around 2 or so threads so that it can still be
screwed down on the projector base. After you're done it should look similar to the following:
Note that it's best to try and get the top shaved down as evenly as possible...it doesn't
have to be perfect but the more even the better. Keep eyeing your work.
As you can see, now I have the perfect amount of space to mount the h1 bulb holder, due
to the fact that the ring is sitting flush against the recessed areas, denoted by
the red areas.
Ok, now that you have your projector fitting all sorted out, it's time to drill the holes
to stick your bixenon wiring through. The perfect culprit? You guessed it...the 9006
glare shield mounting hole. Simply take the smallest dremel drillbit and carefully
insert into the screwhole until it comes all the way out the rear of the housing. Make
sure to keep your dremel as straight and parallel to the hole as possible, in case
you ever want to reinstall the stock glare shield.
aluminum locking rings (also supplied in the kit) and screwing it down all the way
until it's hand tight. If everything does well, you should still see around 2 or 3 exposed
threads sticking out of the rear of the projector unit. However, on the CL, it's such a tight
fit that there were no threads exposed even after tightening the locking ring down...thus
I could not re-install the h1 bulb clip. That is also seen in the picture above.
To alleviate this, I had to shave down both the top of the 9006 glare shield bracket
as well as some of the reflector area below the bulb hole, due to the fact it 'protrudes' outwards
and prevents the projector to sit back any further. This was easily accomplished with a dremel
and the edge of a black diamond cutting disc. As you can see, I grinded down the top of
the glare shield mounting bracket to almost the level of the screwhole itself.
I accidentally shaved down too much of the reflector housing itself and made a tiny hole,
which doesn't affect anything and will be eventually covered up by the stock rubber boot
anyways. You can clean off all cutting dust/debris from the reflector housing with a gentle
stream of water, then drying off with a microfiber towel. Don't use any chemical cleaners:
The LAST thing I had to do to make the projector completely fit was to grind down
the top of both of the aluminum locking rings.
Again, this was just for my particular car...you
may or may not need to do the same. In order to do this, I carefully placed each locking
ring on the ground laying face up (do NOT grind down the bottom....the bottom is completely flat
while the top has a slight curvature to it). I then placed a cloth over one side of the ring
and held it down with my left hand, then used the edge of the black diamond dremel cutting disc to 'grind down' the locking
ring around the entire circumference.
You'll need to use the towel because the aluminum ring gets VERY hot due to the speed
and friction generated by the grinding. This may take around 5 minutes per ring but it will
eventually grind down. You want to essentially grind it down so that it is around half of
its original width. Be sure to leave around 2 or so threads so that it can still be
screwed down on the projector base. After you're done it should look similar to the following:
Note that it's best to try and get the top shaved down as evenly as possible...it doesn't
have to be perfect but the more even the better. Keep eyeing your work.
As you can see, now I have the perfect amount of space to mount the h1 bulb holder, due
to the fact that the ring is sitting flush against the recessed areas, denoted by
the red areas.
Ok, now that you have your projector fitting all sorted out, it's time to drill the holes
to stick your bixenon wiring through. The perfect culprit? You guessed it...the 9006
glare shield mounting hole. Simply take the smallest dremel drillbit and carefully
insert into the screwhole until it comes all the way out the rear of the housing. Make
sure to keep your dremel as straight and parallel to the hole as possible, in case
you ever want to reinstall the stock glare shield.
07-13-2010, 02:55 PM
#3
Staggered 1st Gen
Thread Starter
Congratulations, you're almost finished! Now take each projector and carefully mount it in each
housing as outlined in the earlier steps...first fishing the bixenon wires through the newly
created hole, then putting in the h7 adapter plate on the rear followed by
the locking screw (tightened all the way down)...and lastly, reinstalling the h1 bulb
clips using the 3 screws removed earlier.
If you happen to have very low profile headlight housings (such as mine) the following
is an optional step but is a very good idea just in case your aiming dictates you need
extra room (so that you won't have to take your headlights apart again). First,
take the headlight lense and temporarily press it back onto the housing to simulate
the fully finished product. Then take a screwdriver
and locate the vertical adjustment mechanism on your headlight housing. Carefully lower the vertical
adjustment until the projector shroud is almost touching the outer chrome trim piece
near the headlight lense. OK, now you're going to take some tape and create a 'stencil' of where to
cut into the outer chrome piece so that the projector has room to move both downwards
as well as left to right. Refer to the picture:
Once you have your tape 'template' on....take the headlight lens back off and then remove
the chrome piece, which in my case is held on by 2 philips screws:
Then take your dremel and cutoff wheel and get to work. A tip for extremely smooth and oem looking cuts:
after using your cutoff wheel, slowly go over your work with the edge of an orange or purple polishing bit.
It acts almost like fine sandpaper to rough out any rough cuts.
Thoroughly rinse any dust/debrit off the chrome piece with a fresh stream of water and dry with a microfiber towel,
then test fit the lens and back on and check for fitment. Here is what mine looked like (you should
be able to see the adjustment hole I made):
If everything fits well...here is your chance to do one final good cleaning of both the chrome housings
as well as the inside of the headlamp lens. As far as the inside of the headlight lens, I
HIGHLY recommend those small bottles of prescription eyeglass cleaner spray. They make
the insides look crystal clear, doesn't leave scratches, and most importantly, no streaks.
When working on the inside of the headlight lens, be sure to use your plushest microfiber towels,
as the plastic on the inside is much more sensitive/prone to scratches than the outside due to not
having a clearcoat. Clean the projector lens with the same eyeglass cleaner liquid. The
reflector chrome can be cleaned with just a plus microfiber towel. Don't use any cleaning liquids/
solutions on it...just rinse with water and dry off. When doing your final cleaning pass
on the chrome, I'd suggest doing it in direct sunlight as you may not be able to see
any streaks/water spots left over if you don't have good lighting.
Almost there!!
Now, for sealing up the headlights...I recommend either waterproof indoor/outdoor clear caulk
or rtv clear silicone, which is found at most automotive stores. In the case of rtv silicone,
purchase 2 of the small tubes, as I found that one tube by itself is cutting it close for
sealing up a pair of headlights. Better to have too much than too little. First, take a large
flathead screwdriver and 'clean out' all the old melted oem silicone still remaining in the
crevices. Get as much of it out as you can to make the re-joining and fitment easier.
Then run a generous bead of the silicone/caulk inside the crevice of your headlight housing...
don't be coy with the application...remember, more is better...and you don't want to be opening
these up again due to condensation:
Then take your headlight lens and press it against
the housing firmly, ensuring all the tabs are on securely. You may see some silicone/caulk
ooze out of the crevices...that's OK. You can either gently wipe away the excess with some paper
towels or (as I suggest) just let it dry for an hour or so and you'll be able to pick away the
excess and it won't be sticky or messy.
Now get out there and reinstall your beautiful new retrofitted projectors on your car!
REGARDING BULBS:
As you already know, these mini h1 projectors utilize aftermarket plug and play h1 sized
hid capsules. Some are different than others, in the sense that some have 'notched' bases
and others don't. The notched bases make it so that you don't have to modify them at all
and it's simply a plug and play installation. I've found that the following brand 'Super
Vision' all have these 'notched' bases...which are perfect for these projectors.
As you can see in the picture, the 'notch' in the base allows it to fit perfectly in the
h1 mini's bulb holder without modification. If you have a particular bulb brand that
doesnt have that 'cut notch,' then you must make this cut yourself with a dremel.
To install the bulb into the projector, simply take the bulb (with the return wire oriented downwards)
and insert it into the projector housing..and gently twist and push in until the two
'nipples' on the bulb base slide into the corresponding 'holes' in the back of the
projector housing. Next, take the retaining clips and gently 'bend them' just like in the following
illustration. I've found that when they're in stock form, they don't put adequate pressure
on the bulb base...so bending them a bit eliminates this problem:
Next, take the retaining clip and slide it up 'under' the h1 bulb/wiring (almost
holding it like a 'U', then insert the two open ended prongs into the
corresponding holes in the bulb holder. Once those are in, firmly press down on the bottom
of the clip and to the right until the clip clears and snaps into place. This might take a bit of trial
and error but eventually you'll get it.
CONGRATULATIONS, YOU'RE ALL DONE WITH THE INSTALLATION! (with exception of the bixenon wiring, of which I haven't quite figured out)
housing as outlined in the earlier steps...first fishing the bixenon wires through the newly
created hole, then putting in the h7 adapter plate on the rear followed by
the locking screw (tightened all the way down)...and lastly, reinstalling the h1 bulb
clips using the 3 screws removed earlier.
If you happen to have very low profile headlight housings (such as mine) the following
is an optional step but is a very good idea just in case your aiming dictates you need
extra room (so that you won't have to take your headlights apart again). First,
take the headlight lense and temporarily press it back onto the housing to simulate
the fully finished product. Then take a screwdriver
and locate the vertical adjustment mechanism on your headlight housing. Carefully lower the vertical
adjustment until the projector shroud is almost touching the outer chrome trim piece
near the headlight lense. OK, now you're going to take some tape and create a 'stencil' of where to
cut into the outer chrome piece so that the projector has room to move both downwards
as well as left to right. Refer to the picture:
Once you have your tape 'template' on....take the headlight lens back off and then remove
the chrome piece, which in my case is held on by 2 philips screws:
Then take your dremel and cutoff wheel and get to work. A tip for extremely smooth and oem looking cuts:
after using your cutoff wheel, slowly go over your work with the edge of an orange or purple polishing bit.
It acts almost like fine sandpaper to rough out any rough cuts.
Thoroughly rinse any dust/debrit off the chrome piece with a fresh stream of water and dry with a microfiber towel,
then test fit the lens and back on and check for fitment. Here is what mine looked like (you should
be able to see the adjustment hole I made):
If everything fits well...here is your chance to do one final good cleaning of both the chrome housings
as well as the inside of the headlamp lens. As far as the inside of the headlight lens, I
HIGHLY recommend those small bottles of prescription eyeglass cleaner spray. They make
the insides look crystal clear, doesn't leave scratches, and most importantly, no streaks.
When working on the inside of the headlight lens, be sure to use your plushest microfiber towels,
as the plastic on the inside is much more sensitive/prone to scratches than the outside due to not
having a clearcoat. Clean the projector lens with the same eyeglass cleaner liquid. The
reflector chrome can be cleaned with just a plus microfiber towel. Don't use any cleaning liquids/
solutions on it...just rinse with water and dry off. When doing your final cleaning pass
on the chrome, I'd suggest doing it in direct sunlight as you may not be able to see
any streaks/water spots left over if you don't have good lighting.
Almost there!!
Now, for sealing up the headlights...I recommend either waterproof indoor/outdoor clear caulk
or rtv clear silicone, which is found at most automotive stores. In the case of rtv silicone,
purchase 2 of the small tubes, as I found that one tube by itself is cutting it close for
sealing up a pair of headlights. Better to have too much than too little. First, take a large
flathead screwdriver and 'clean out' all the old melted oem silicone still remaining in the
crevices. Get as much of it out as you can to make the re-joining and fitment easier.
Then run a generous bead of the silicone/caulk inside the crevice of your headlight housing...
don't be coy with the application...remember, more is better...and you don't want to be opening
these up again due to condensation:
Then take your headlight lens and press it against
the housing firmly, ensuring all the tabs are on securely. You may see some silicone/caulk
ooze out of the crevices...that's OK. You can either gently wipe away the excess with some paper
towels or (as I suggest) just let it dry for an hour or so and you'll be able to pick away the
excess and it won't be sticky or messy.
Now get out there and reinstall your beautiful new retrofitted projectors on your car!
REGARDING BULBS:
As you already know, these mini h1 projectors utilize aftermarket plug and play h1 sized
hid capsules. Some are different than others, in the sense that some have 'notched' bases
and others don't. The notched bases make it so that you don't have to modify them at all
and it's simply a plug and play installation. I've found that the following brand 'Super
Vision' all have these 'notched' bases...which are perfect for these projectors.
As you can see in the picture, the 'notch' in the base allows it to fit perfectly in the
h1 mini's bulb holder without modification. If you have a particular bulb brand that
doesnt have that 'cut notch,' then you must make this cut yourself with a dremel.
To install the bulb into the projector, simply take the bulb (with the return wire oriented downwards)
and insert it into the projector housing..and gently twist and push in until the two
'nipples' on the bulb base slide into the corresponding 'holes' in the back of the
projector housing. Next, take the retaining clips and gently 'bend them' just like in the following
illustration. I've found that when they're in stock form, they don't put adequate pressure
on the bulb base...so bending them a bit eliminates this problem:
Next, take the retaining clip and slide it up 'under' the h1 bulb/wiring (almost
holding it like a 'U', then insert the two open ended prongs into the
corresponding holes in the bulb holder. Once those are in, firmly press down on the bottom
of the clip and to the right until the clip clears and snaps into place. This might take a bit of trial
and error but eventually you'll get it.
CONGRATULATIONS, YOU'RE ALL DONE WITH THE INSTALLATION! (with exception of the bixenon wiring, of which I haven't quite figured out)
07-13-2010, 02:55 PM
#4
Staggered 1st Gen
Thread Starter
HEADLIGHT AIMING:
Find yourself the most flattest and level surface you can. Most often these come in the form of underground parking garages. You can double check
how level they are by bringing a leveler with you and setting it on the ground in several areas.
Once there, drive as close up to the wall as you can, making sure your car is as close to
perpindicular as possible. Mark the center of each headlight with a piece of colored painters' tape.
Now get back in your car and slowly drive backwards approximately 25 feet, keeping as straight
and perpendicular to the wall as you can. At this point, you'll want to have the top of your
hid cutoff 'steps' right around 2 inches below the piece of tape you originally marked. I
actually aimed mine right at the level of the tape (a little higher) since my car is so slammed.
You also want to make sure that the top of the cutoff steps didnt move left or right of
these original markings. If they did, adjust accordingly. The distance between your cutoff
steps (distance between the two pieces of tape) should neither increase or decrease at any distance...they should be pointing perfectly straightforward.
If your projectors need rotational adjustment, now is the time when you grab a small flathead screwdriver, along
with a small hammer or mallet...and place the head of the screwdriver against the 'tab' of the h7 adapter
and gently 'tap'the end of the screwdriver to either rotate the projector clockwise or
counterclockwise. This is where using the h7 adapter comes in handy.
When I said that these projectors were both colorful and sharp, I am not joking. I've been
through both tsx and modified clear lense sc430 projectors and none come even close
to the width of the colorband and flicker of these things. No modification necessary...
this is how they look straight out of the box:
Enjoy these epic projectors, and if you have any additional questions or are interested, please feel free to
contact me
Find yourself the most flattest and level surface you can. Most often these come in the form of underground parking garages. You can double check
how level they are by bringing a leveler with you and setting it on the ground in several areas.
Once there, drive as close up to the wall as you can, making sure your car is as close to
perpindicular as possible. Mark the center of each headlight with a piece of colored painters' tape.
Now get back in your car and slowly drive backwards approximately 25 feet, keeping as straight
and perpendicular to the wall as you can. At this point, you'll want to have the top of your
hid cutoff 'steps' right around 2 inches below the piece of tape you originally marked. I
actually aimed mine right at the level of the tape (a little higher) since my car is so slammed.
You also want to make sure that the top of the cutoff steps didnt move left or right of
these original markings. If they did, adjust accordingly. The distance between your cutoff
steps (distance between the two pieces of tape) should neither increase or decrease at any distance...they should be pointing perfectly straightforward.
If your projectors need rotational adjustment, now is the time when you grab a small flathead screwdriver, along
with a small hammer or mallet...and place the head of the screwdriver against the 'tab' of the h7 adapter
and gently 'tap'the end of the screwdriver to either rotate the projector clockwise or
counterclockwise. This is where using the h7 adapter comes in handy.
When I said that these projectors were both colorful and sharp, I am not joking. I've been
through both tsx and modified clear lense sc430 projectors and none come even close
to the width of the colorband and flicker of these things. No modification necessary...
this is how they look straight out of the box:
Enjoy these epic projectors, and if you have any additional questions or are interested, please feel free to
contact me
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07-15-2010, 01:06 PM
#9
almost done...
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Age: 36
Posts: 892
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i have no idea how u grinded those locking nuts down with a dremel. i guess i dont have the same bit as you but i gave them to a friend to see if he can help me out so we'll see
07-15-2010, 01:18 PM
#10
Staggered 1st Gen
Thread Starter
the edge of a 'reinforced' #426 cutting wheel...can be found at most hardware shops or auto parts stores:
They're black, have a 'waffle' texture, and are specifically made for cutting through fiberglass/aluminum. I've used em for just about everything, including cutting parts out of the engine bay. Great stuff and cheap
http://cgi.ebay.com/100-1-5-REINFORC...item5193e4e787
07-19-2010, 07:52 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
My post must have gotten deleted.
Great write-up on the HID's.
I'll definitely be using this now that we can add HID projectors without tearing up the housing.
Great write-up on the HID's.
I'll definitely be using this now that we can add HID projectors without tearing up the housing.
07-19-2012, 05:14 PM
#17
Racer
Old ass thread but if anyone could help I would appreciate it. Wondering if instead of grinding the lockring down could I just get slightly longer screws for the 3 screws that hold the h1 clip to the back of the projector to compensate for the gap?
07-20-2012, 02:43 AM
#19
Racer
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Last edited by Miiike; 07-20-2012 at 02:49 AM.
07-20-2012, 05:32 AM
#20
07-20-2012, 10:39 AM
#21
Racer
It's these 3 screws. The ones you take off the projector when you first start. The ones on the very back of the projector. They are the reason he filed down the lock nut because they don't reach there holes to tighten everything up. I was thinking longer screws and there would be no need to mess with the locknut. Thanks!
02-23-2014, 03:07 AM
#23
thanks for making this DIY, I've read through it and i want to to do a retrofit but i feel that having pictures would help me see how it's done a whole lot better. can you please redo/rehost the pictures?
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