Acura-CL Grounding Kit DIY Question
 

Im gonna be doing that DYI grounding kit today. the instructions mention a LOCK WASHER, anyone know what size of lock washer to get?


Acura-CL Grounding Kit DIY
Acura - CL Custom Grounding Kit

Safety 1st: Work only on cool or cold engines. Hot engines will burn you!

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for what you do to your automobile. Install at your own risk. Read instructions thoroughly before installation.

Kit Includes:

1 - Installation Instructions
1 - Lock Washer - Used as a spacer in Step 21.
2 - Zip Ties - Used to keep wires in place.
6 - 4 gauge heat & chemical resistant insulated high purity copper cables:

#1 - 18” – Passenger side chassis ground to alternator.
#2 - 18” – Top rear of throttle body to driver side fender well bracket.
#3 - 20” – Passenger side chassis ground to steering pump.
#4 - 20” – Fender well bracket to battery/chassis ground.
#5 - 30” – Power steering ground to top rear of throttle body.
#6 - 30” – Top front throttle body to alternator.

Tools required:

10 mm open/closed end wrench
10 mm socket and driver
1 Quarter or Penny

Time Required:

1 - 1.5 hours, at most.

Installation:

Note: Hold on to your Screws! DO NOT OVER TORQUE! Recommended; < 7 ft-lbs.

1.) Remove plastic engine cover by removing the 4 securing bolts with a 10 mm socket driver.

2.) Remove the small plastic cover which houses the top of the spark plugs by unscrewing the slotted fasteners with a quarter or penny.

3.) Remove the 10 mm bolt holding the passenger side chassis ground just above the ABS controller. The factory ground has three very thin wires coming off of it.

4.) Using the bolt you just removed from step 3, put it through one end of the #1 wire, then the #3 wire and then back through the ground wires. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.

5.) Run the #1 wire towards the front of the CL around the plastic filler tube for the wiper reservoir and towards the alternator.

6.) Run the #3 wire toward the back of the CL along the fender well and then to the factory ground on top of the power steering pump.

7.) Remove the bolt securing the factory ground on top of the power steering pump using a 10 mm wrench or driver.

8.) Using the bolt you just removed from step 7, put it through one end of the #5 wire, the free end of the #3 wire and then the factory ground wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.

9.) Run the #5 wire along the top of the valve cover and towards the top of the throttle body.

10.) Remove the rear 10 mm bolt on top of the throttle body. This bolt holds down a small metal tube junction.

11.) Using the bolt just removed from step10, place it through one end of the #2 wire and then the free end to the #5 wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.

12.) Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds down an orange connector on the driver side fender well.

13.) Using this bolt, place it through one end of the #4 wire and then the free end of the #2 wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.

14.) Run this wire towards the front of the CL.

15.) Remove the battery/chassis ground bolt which is directly in front of the battery using a 10 mm wrench.

16.) Using this bolt, place through the free end of the #2 wire and re-secure to the battery/chassis ground using a 10 mm wrench.

17.) Remove the front bolt on top of the throttle body that holds the same metal tube bracket in step10.

18.) Using this bolt, place through one end of the #6 wire and re-secure leave loose to allow for positioning of the wires.

19.) Run the #6 wire toward the front of the CL then toward the alternator. Run the wire below the spark plug connectors.

20.) Remove the 10 mm bolt on top of the alternator. This bolt secures a black wire bracket.

21.) Using this bolt, place through the free end of the #6 wire, then the supplied washer, then the free end of the #1 wire and re-secure. NOTE: The washer is a necessary spacer required to lift the #6 wire terminal over the black bracket so there is NO contact with it.

22.) Position wires to allow for free movement. Use wire ties to secure wires where ever necessary.

23.) Tighten down each bolt. CAUTION: Do not over torque bolts!!! 5 to 7 lbs is all that is necessary.

24.) Replace the plastic spark plug cover and secure.

25.) Replace the plastic engine cover and re-secure the 10 mm bolts.

26.) Enjoy!


Copyright © 2003 Szita Technologies
1 - Lock Washer - Used as a spacer in Step 21.

Anyone?

I would try getting a 1/4 and 1/8 diameter hole with 1/16 or 1/8 thickness. They are only a few cents so you should not be losing too much cash if you get the wrong one. Oh yeah, don't forget, use a copper-based washer. You can also get something zinc-plated to prevent rust.

Thanx Nite, Apreciate the help.

Hmmm, I've been seriously starting to consider doing this mod after all the searching I've been doing. Any additional suggestions to the instructions above or anything else I should think about before purchasing anything?

Does anyone know what size the inside diameter of the ring terminals are in this kit?

Are they 1/4" or something smaller/bigger? Thanks for helping a noob out!

Is the purpose of this to have more places to ground things that you install?

No it is because that the highly paid electrical engineers working for Honda/Acura have no idea what the hell they are doing. Oh, it also puts money in the pockets of those who cut pretty colored wires into lengths and throw on some electrical connectors and sell them to fools! :2cents: Car will also shift smother, idle better and get 50 more rwhp. :whyme:

haha ^ word. but it does make your car run smoother and such

NO!

Grounding wires =
http://www.swagga.com/priestvoodoo.jpg

^^^^ :rofl:

I wouldn't be THAT harsh on grounding kits. Sure, they are for the most part ridiculous, but on some cars that have horrid grounding from the factory they actually help a lot.

I don't know about grounding kits, but I have doubled my MPG since I stared using snake oil in the engine!

Wow this kit will make the car awd!!!!

^^^ :tomato: Bahaha
Umm "Rear Wheel Horse Power" No?

Sounds kind of like what us audio guru's do to our cars....the "magic 3" mod. Only purpose in the audio world is to get the most out of your electrical system for high power stereos.

How would this benefit the car any other way?

It doesn't work miracles of course, but this is what I've read:

more horsepower, smoother idle and better gas mileage due to the ecu being grounded better (less gaps in data being the reason so), reduces dimming of lights and less background noise on the stereo system.

Now after reading around for while they seems like they will result in very minimal gains for our cars.

I've read that older cars with aging and crappy stock ground wires can benefit a decent amount from an after-market ground wire kit.
Integra's with crappy ground wiring can supposely gain up to 10 whp with a good ground wire set.

:tomato:

If you believe a ground kit will work, you may as well believe it also made it a AWD car. :thumbsup:

You can even buy pre-made kits, but this is for engine ground, alternator to batt, and I forget the third. This isn't meant to hook up to the ECU.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=28_56

was wanting to know if anyone had done this and if they thought it was worth it?
found the kit for our cars:
http://www.racinglab.com/hyper-groun...acura-002.html

:rofl:

They actually sell that for $100??? :pofl:

Order a spool of heavy gauge ground wire from a stereo place along with the proper crimp on ends and shrink wrap and spend an hour making the cables for 50% the price and 200% the satisfaction.

EDIT - Just saw that it includes zip-ties. Totally worth it now.

:tongue:$100 isnt bad..as long as it has all the connectors and such too. I guess I just replace the grounds that i found with 4 gauge wire? Not that big of a deal as long as its worth it

Yea, 4 gauge wire should be good. Just make sure its quality wire, some companies like to measure the gauge including a really thick outer jacket and using thin wire, which isnt the right way.

Make sure you get the proper fittings and Id suggest soldering them on as well as crimping them for extra protection. Then use shrink wrap. Ive been meaning to do the big three mod, but I havent gotten the time for it.

Aside from the price of the kit you posted, Im not seeing the wire gauge they use.

yeah, i used to install systems all the time, so i am knowledgeable on this stuff too, but the gauge on that kit looks like 8 gauge, which is the same as what we have, so that would be pointless, but the way they install it is the kicker i believe, with all the mounting and connecting points....oh well...this will be #3 or 4 on my list to do next on my car...

$100 is a bit high, but it's definitely a worthwhile mod whether you buy the kit or make one. I bought a v 6 p kit back in the day for like $75, but it came with bat terminals and shit. I made my own big 3 positive wires out of 4 gauge wire.